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Rose Care Guide for November

ludwigsroses
Published on November 7th 2021
17

by CandideUK. All rights reserved

A close up of a flower
This is the best time to look closely at every rose bush and compare its performance with the others in your garden.
You can judge the well-being of a bush by the size of its leaves and the length of the internodes (the space between one leaf and the next). Smaller leaves, often deep green and very compact growth, is an indication of not enough water being absorbed. It is a common occurrence and of course, we want every rose to be happy and grow and flower to its best potential.
I see affected plants in our own extensive rose plantings. When I notice the tell-tale signs in certain roses and I take a closer look, it is mostly when a rose is on the edge of a raised bed, a sprinkler not properly functioning or the soil is too compacted. Digging an inspection hole will most often reveal the root cause.

Dig into the article below for care advice and rosy tips for your rose garden this November!

Pest Patrol

Amazingly, I notice very few flower‐eating beetles so far. If they do arrive, the easiest way to eradicate them is to keep a ready‐to‐use Rose Protector handy. It is pre-mixed so you don't need to measure and dilute anything and it comes in a Handy Andy type spray container.
You then simply spray onto the beetles and blooms. They usually catch the hint and disappear for a while.
I saw Monkey beetles for the first time in a garden in the Cape. They were ravaging the blooms. Treatment would be the same as for the CMR and Fruit beetles.
Monkey beetles in a bloom in the Cape.Best remedy: keep a ready-to-use Rose Protectorhandy and spray onto them.

CMR Beetle

Hycleus oculatus

A close up photograph of a white-spotted chafer Mausoleopsis amabilis
on a daisy

White-Spotted Fruit Chafer

Mausoleopsis amabilis

Garden Fruit Chafer

Pachnoda sinuata

A close up photo of an adult European Chafer Beetle Amphimallon majale

European Chafer

Amphimallon majale

Bud or bollworms are around aplenty this spring. Since it is a moth that arrives at night to lay its eggs onto the green sepals of the rosebuds, it is difficult to catch the small caterpillars as they hatch and start eating their way into the bud. Once it has eaten its way into the bud it is impossible to eradicate them. They just eat, become thick and puncture every petal in the process. Their main season should be coming to an end right now.
Now is the time to watch out for the Christmas or brown beetles. They come out at night and chomp and frolic on your rose leaves. They are the same ones that fly against outside lights.
Not too easy to stop. You can build a light trap by hanging an LED lamp just above a bucket that has a little water and two tablespoons of oil in. They then fall in and can't get out.
Alternatively, spray with Makhro's Plant Care onto the leaves during the day.
Most Fungus diseases only become a problem in moist, cool, misty weather. These are mainly Black Spot, Downy Mildew and Rose Rust.
All this sounds quite terrible and complicated, but none of these pests or diseases are too much of a problem if you spray fortnightly, alternating Ludwig’s Cocktail and Rose Protector. It is all about prevention, before you need to try and cure.
To make this chore easy and efficient make sure you have the right‐sized spray pump.

Feeding and Fertilizing

A regular, monthly application of fertiliser or nutrition is just as important. We expect our roses to carry on replacing spent blooms with new stems and flowers for our South African long, long growing season. Being unable to stretch their roots far out in search of nutrients like a big tree, they rely on us to be fed.
Ludwig’s VIGOROSA is easy to apply. Scatter 25 to 30g around each bush.Twice as much for a large climber.
It contains the full range of nutrients including Epsom salts. Without these nutrients (dissolved in water and absorbed by the roots) the rose takes food out of the mature lower leaves on the bush in order to keep on growing. These leaves then become light green and susceptible to fungus diseases so that even the preventative spraying becomes ineffective.
A close up of a flower

Watering

Our roses have shown their hardiness and adaptability to the amount of water that arrives at their roots. They like water in motion, which means that water should flow through and be absorbed by the soil with the excess draining further down, allowing for the air to follow. The beautiful huge‐bloomed cut roses offered for sale in the shops and by florists are watered 10 times a day. Every watering is just 100 ml, that adds up to 1 l later a day and seven litres a week.
This is not practical for a garden, as each garden has variable soil quality, sand or clay or turf, root competition, or restricted water availability.
Each gardener needs to find a satisfying rhythm for themselves and the roses. A light watering every day or a once a week deep drenching is ideal. That involves running the mini sprinklers for 10 minutes daily or for one hour once a week. The same applies to handheld watering.
I have realised long ago that a person who has “green fingers” actually simply understands the water requirements of the various plants.
A hand holding a bat

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